Evolution of a Chef

My first cookbook? Betty Crocker's "Boys and Girls Cookbook" received as a gift from Aunt Mary. I'm not sure that I actually did cook anything out of it. At least I hope not. The photo of pigs in a blanket sent a shudder down my food stylin' spine. I also remember being put off by the list of judges that were pictured on the front page. Was Betty's definition of "kid approved" defined by the kid who came up with the recipe for Candle Salad on page 126? Close your eyes and envision this: Candle base is a ring of pineapple. Candle is a banana set upright in the center of the pineapple ring. The flame is a maraschino cherry fastened on top of the banana with a toothpick. Perhaps it was Betty herself who channeled this conceptual piece late one night to some poor, old home economist who hated children and just wanted to go home. We have been told that Betty Crocker never existed but I think that this recipe proves she did. They just needed to keep her out of the way.

The best decade of cookbooks, in my opinion, were the 80's. My friend Tom got a job at Random House as Joe Fox's assistant and cookbooks started arriving in my mailbox weekly. I never asked him how he managed it, I just got busy and started cooking and baking. Especially baking... I baked my way through all of the Maida Heatter books. Palm Beach brownies? The mother of them all. I put away many a guest who was sure that they could consume an entire slice of New York City Chocolate Cheesecake and not go into shock. The first Silver Palate Cookbook is still one of the best ever written if what you want is great flavor combos and an idea of what was new and exciting in America in the 80's (Watch the quantities though. If you are not careful you could end up with a very tasty rice salad that will serve 32). The 80's also brought lots of business trips to NYC. When I wasn't showing portfolios to art directors on Madison Avenue, I was eating my way through town. Breakfast at Sarabeth's Kitchen (pumpkin waffles topped with yogurt, pumpkin seeds and real maple syrup). Lunch at Mr. Jennings' off Fifth Avenue (turkey tea sandwiches with watercress and lots of East Side matrons in Chanel suits and headbands). Dinner at La Bibliotheque or SOHO Charcuterie. Late, late dinner at the Empire Diner. Worshipping at Dean & Deluca.

So what am I cooking out of today? The Jimtown Store Cookbook. One of the authors was an original partner in The Silver Palate. Also, The Foster's Market Cookbook. Sara Foster is brilliant. I find the Southern slant of her recipes interesting. I have been really lazy about seeking out any Nuevo Latino style cookbooks. I confess to being spoiled. Why cook it when I can walk down the hill four blocks and get a great meal at B44 or go to the Mission and have dinner at ALMA? Lazy girl am I. But if anyone has a suggestion I will gladly take it. It is about time that America gets hip to the sophisticated flavors and traditions of Spain, Portugal and Latin America. So much about food in America has to do with class and snobbism. I doubt that Julia Child's show would have even been optioned in the 60's if it had been called "The Spanish Chef". Thanks to chefs like Rick Bayless and Douglas Rodriguez, America is becoming more aware and appreciative of these cuisines. Betty sipping Mojitos? I like it.