The Dessert Pantry
This article originally appeared in the on line zine SPACE published by the wonderful vintage clothing website 'enokiworld'.
Lots of basic cookbooks will have lists of what you should have in your pantry. Things like flour, salt, sugar, baking powder, etc., which is fine if you really are a cook. And you really do anticipate baking in the next six months. And you have the luxury of planning ahead. But let's be honest - life in the kitchen is mostly about 'I am so hungry right now I could eat that tuna right out of the can' and 'Have I really spent $100 on take-out food this week?'. In the next few months we will give you an idea of what the New Pantry of the 21st century should look like. Some of it will seem exotic (hearts of palm), some of it is a matter of personal choice (only Tellicherry black peppercorns, please) but all of it will enable you to fix something delicious. Fast. Your closet looks great. Why shouldn't your pantry?
This whole celebrity chef thing has gotten way out of control. I am trying to re-write a recipe for a lamb shish kabob. What the hell was that chef thinking? Dice a lamb shank into three 3" cubes, screwer with a rosemary branch? Does anyone realize how heavy three 3" cubes of lamb are? The branch either bends so much that you can't even move it without the lamb slipping off or it snaps in half. And then we grill this baby? PLEEEEEEEEEEEEZE...
My friend Suzanne and I once had an idea for a store. It would sell only a handful of items available from the 16th arrondissement in Paris, i.e.; dental floss from the drug store, displayed on pedestals with pin lighting. And we would call it 'La Tete Vide'. Somehow these chef's recipes recall that idea. This is all about non-pretentious food.
The Dessert Pantry:
sweetened condensed milk
semi-sweet chocolate chips
lemon curd (spread on shortbread cookies)
shortbread cookies (i.e.; Pepperidge Farm)
raspberry jam (warmed as a topping for premium vanilla ice cream)
During times of high stress I can be found, late at night, standing over the sink with a spoon in one hand and a can of sweetened condensed milk in the other muttering to myself "why in the hell don't they put pull tops on these f%*$! cans?!?!". I am not suggesting that YOU eat sweetened condensed milk right out of the can. Nor should you serve it to your guests. Just know that it is a great staple for your pantry and the short cut to the creamiest fudge you have ever tasted. Since mainlining chocolate and coffee is not something we should discuss in front of the children, suffice it to say that this fudge is the hit you are looking for.
ESPRESSO FUDGE
16 ounces semi sweet chocolate chips, MELTED
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk
2 teaspoons freshly ground espresso
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
Stir together all of the above. Pour into a buttered 8" x 8" pan. Chill one hour. Cut into any size square you want. Or just cut it in half and dig in. No one is watching.
No need to cook the milk. It sets up as is. Enjoy!
Posted by: Karletta | January 10, 2005 at 03:52 PM
Does the milk need to be cooked before adding the rest of the ingredients, or does it set up as is?
Posted by: terry | January 09, 2005 at 04:07 PM