The Neighborhoods: Chinatown Bakery

I try to resist humming the song ‘Grant Avenue’ from ‘Flower Drum Song’ as I walk through Chinatown during Chinese New Year.  1950’s sentiments and stereotypes aside, it was probably the one piece of theater that had the most to do with promoting San Francisco tourism.  I like Chinatown in January.  But I love it in February when it revs up for the New Year.  Red lanterns swing from balconies.  Florist shops are full of flowering quince, cherry and peach branches.  Thick hunks of candied coconut are sold for 99 cents a package. The streets are a little too crowded for my taste, but I still manage to get over to Golden Gate Bakery to pick up a freshly baked treat to eat on the street.  A vulgar habit, I am told.  But a delicious habit, nonetheless.

Golden Gate Bakery usually has a long line out the door.  A very slow moving line.  It’s not that they are understaffed.  There are usually three women, including the owner, behind the counter at all times.  Remember, however, that this is not Starbucks and each person in front of you is not just ordering one double latte and one muffin.  People come to Golden Gate Bakery because they are buying for a crowd.  It is not unusual for customers, already weighted down with the ubiquitous Chinatown pink plastic bags hanging from their arms, to slowly edge their way out the narrow doorway balancing a stack of pink boxes.  Pink cardboard bakery boxes that have little vents cut into the tops to vent the steam from the still hot treats. continued.....

What to buy?  First check out what is on the shelves.  Then consult the round cardboard, handwritten menu swinging from a ribbon tacked to a back shelf.  From the look of this sign the list of offerings has remained the same since they first opened, only the prices have changed.  I always get the egg custard tarts.  Slightly larger (3 ½”) than the ones you find at Dim Sum restaurants. And the coconut rolls which come in two shapes.  Either the plump glazed bun of sweet dough stuffed with coconut or the spiral of dough whirled around flecks of sweet coconut meat.  One day I will try ‘cocktail buns’ as listed on the menu.  A hold over from 1950’s cocktail parties when smart San Francisco hostesses would order up a couple of dozen and stuff them with deviled Dungeness crab while humming 'I enjoy being a girl' ...

Golden Gate Bakery, 1029 Grant Street, 415-781-2627.  Call first.  They always close during the height of tourist season.  Well, wouldn’t you?

Comments

[Cathy Quon]

Don't be afraid of the cocktail buns at Golden Gate Bakery. They are simply filled with a slightly sweet coconut paste inside and has a rich, buttery brioche type bun around it. I have not had the ones at GGB but my family is a fan of the egg custard tarts which are the best!