Culinary Muse

THE WELL STOCKED DESSERT PANTRY

In the next few months I plan to give you an idea of what the New Pantry of the 21st Century should look like. Some of it will seem exotic (hearts of palm), some of it is a matter of personal choice (only Tellicherry black peppercorns, please) but all of it will enable you to fix something delicious fast.  Let's be honest - life in the kitchen is mostly about 'I am so hungry right now I could eat that tuna right out of the can with my bare hands' and 'Have I really spent $100 on take-out food this week?'.  You need a PAR list of foods that have a long shelf life and can be combined to serve up something delicious on short notice.
I am inspired by my long time friend, NA, who has always said we should write a cookbook together.  She and I have had hour long conversations on the phone about what a well stocked pantry must contain. She speaks from experience. She is the first person I had ever met that always had heavy cream in her refrigerator ‘just in case’.  A little background: NA came of age in New York City during the Swingin’ Sixties.  With a husband in advertising and her job as a booker for one of the top modeling agencies in the country, every evening held the potential of a party and she was always prepared. I imagine her hosting many an impromptu cocktail party at their apartment on Riverside Drive before departing for dinner at La Pavilion.  In her honor we are going to start with the Dessert Pantry for two reasons.  NA and I are both confirmed Chocoholics and who couldn’t use a little sweetness during tax week?

The Dessert Pantry: Even the most basic cookbook will tell you that you need basic ingredients like flour, salt, sugar, baking powder in your pantry if you plan on baking.  We agree.  But you also need some ready-made ingredients that can be combined to create last minute desserts.  This list of ingredients will give you the tools to create something sweet that is more than a candy bar but not as elaborate as a four layer cake.
Non-perishable:
Sweetened condensed milk , 2 cans (makes fudge fast and easy.  See recipe below)
Dark chocolate chips, 2 - 12 ounce packages or at least 1 ½ pounds Purchase the best quality you can afford and as far as we are concerned, the darker, the better! Chips come in handy for eating out of hand or for topping ice cream.  Sometimes I just melt a quarter cup in the microwave and pour on top of a scoop of plain vanilla ice cream.
Lemon curd (can be spread on or sandwiched between shortbread cookies for a quick treat)
Shortbread cookies (good dipped in melted chocolate)
Raspberry jam (can be warmed up to use as a topping for premium vanilla ice cream)
Unsweetened chocolate
Cake flour
Baking powder, baking soda, salt
Sugar
Vanilla extract, Bourbon or Tahitian
The recipe for Bittersweet Chocolate Cake from the first Silver Palate cookbook, page 291.
Perishable: (you will note that even these perishables have a long refrigerator life)
Eggs       
Heavy Cream (at least 8 ounces)
Vanilla ice cream
Butter, sweet (no salt)
Nuts (shelled whole walnuts are the most versatile, store in freezer).  It is a nice touch to toast nuts before using.  Spread nuts on a baking sheet, place in pre-heated 400 degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring every five minutes.  When nicely toasted (not burnt), immediately turn out into a shallow bowl to cool.

Favorite Easy Recipe:
During times of high stress I can be found, late at night, standing over the sink with a spoon in one hand and a can of sweetened condensed milk in the other muttering to myself ‘Why in the world don't they put pull tops on these f%*$! cans?!?!’. I am not suggesting that YOU eat sweetened condensed milk right out of the can. Nor should you consider serving it to your guests. Just know that it is a great staple for your pantry and the short cut to this ultra creamy fudge.  This very adult fudge is the just the post-tax treat you are looking for. And for those of you who have filed an extension, keep this recipe handy for July 15th!

ESPRESSO FUDGE
16 ounces semi sweet chocolate chips, MELTED
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk
2 teaspoons freshly ground espresso
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
Stir together all of the above. Pour into a buttered 8" x 8" pan. Chill one hour. Cut into any size square you want. Or just cut it in half and dig in. No one is watching and you have our blessing!

Who Doesn’t Need S’Mores?

I once wrote that cupcakes are the puppies of the baking world.  People come undone and practically fall to their knees when confronted with the cuteness of a cupcake.  I would like to add another sweet to the list: the s’more. While the s’more was once only an a-la-minute-do-it-yourself gooey treat served campfire side, it now serves as muse to confectioners and cookbook authors alike.
I realize that spring just began a few weeks ago but aren’t we all thinking about what we are going to do for our summer vacation? I thought it would be a great idea to give the reader a few ideas for summer entertaining and gift giving, especially since all of these ideas involve ordering ahead. 

S’Mores Cookbook: Before I tell you how charming this cookbook is I must disclaim that I was involved in the early stages of its planning.  (Really, all I did was read the first draft and provide a couple chocolate suggestions). 
GIMME S'MORES  is a self-published cookbook by John Felts. On vacation in Maui one summer, John was inspired by his family’s tradition of having s’mores for dessert after dinner.  While reaching for his glass of port and his second s’more he was heard to say ‘what the world really needs is a S’MORE COOKBOOK!’  And who are we to argue?  I think of this photo packed cookbook less as a collection of recipes and more as an indispensable handbook of assembly ideas.  There are recipes ranging from the classic to the experimental.  Loaded with photographs and diagrams the reader will learn how to roast the perfect marshmallow and how to create a s’more when there is no campfire in sight. How about a Range Top S’more or a Microwave S’more?  Wondering what other uses you might have for that blowtorch?  Never built a campfire before?  No problem. The Technique chapter offers how-tos on building a classic campfire.

There is no reason to confine the enjoyment of a s’more to summertime only.  Why not start your own Christmas tradition by leaving Santa a special peppermint Christmas S’more  - much more interesting than a chocolate chip cookie! And just in case you thought that s’mores are all about child’s play, there is a section on wine pairing.  Very adult, indeed!  A copy of this book ($21.00 soft cover) will make an amusing summer hostess gift, along with a box of graham crackers, a bag of marshmallows, some great chocolate and lots of imagination.

S’More Gear: August 10 is unofficially National S’Mores Day.  The Girl Scouts may have invented this graham-cracker-roasted-marshmallow-chocolate treat but my earliest s’more memory is from a Camp Fire Girl’s overnight camping trip.  The camping trip took place in a regional park not too far from our home but it still felt like we were all braving the wild. We were each responsible for finding our own marshmallow roasting stick that we had to strip the bark off of using our pocketknives. Why whittle when you can just go to PIE IRON  and purchase one of their marshmallow roasting forks?  You thought that it would be easy to decide what fork to use?  There is the ‘#RT-12 Roaster Toaster Fork, the #2200 Picnic Forks in four fashion colors, the #3000 Marshmallow and Weenie Roaster with vinyl dipped handle, or, my favorite, #4900 Marshmallow Tree fork made from steel that is bent and turned to look like the branches of a tree.  Each end holds a marshmallow allowing the user to roast ten marshmallows at a time.  I am trying hard to think of an occasion where I might want ten marshmallows ready all at one time.  I have always viewed the roasting of marshmallows as a kind of do-it-yourself activity.  I roast mine, you roast yours.  Clearly there are gaps in my marshmallow education

On the Go S’Mores: I received an email last week from RECCHIUTI   announcing the return of their ‘S’Mores Bites’.  I am a big fan of these easy, on-the-go treats.  No assembly required and they fit nicely in a handbag or lunch box.  The description reads: Fresh Recchiuti marshmallows lay atop tiny handmade graham crackers that are blanketed in pure bittersweet chocolate.  4 pieces, $8.00.  If you plan to ship these be sure to read the important note that will bring a smile to your face:
S’Mores Bites are made with fluffy marshmallows filled with air.  They are very yummy, but they pop their tops in high altitudes.  Shipping = Airplane = High Altitude. When your Bites arrive after shipping they will be slightly cracked on top. 

S’Mores Kits: For those who want to kick up the s’more experience a notch or two or three, Recchiuti San Francisco also offers a S’Mores Kit.  The kit contains eight handmade Vanilla Bean Marshmallows, 8 Recchiuti Graham crackers and a Bittersweet 85% Chocolate Bar.  Makes 4 to 8 servings. $22.00.