Culinary Muse

HOW TO NAVIGATE A FOOD SHOW

The more often I go to Food Shows, the more select I become.  In the early years I would eat myself silly.  Sure, I would love a hand full of jelly beans with that Polish Sausage Sandwich. And could I have an espresso to wash it all down with?

After years of acid indigestion which seemed to linger for weeks after the show I knew that I needed a different strategy. So, one year I decided to limit myself to the International Aisles.  This showed a lot of promise. The olive oils alone could take a half a day to taste. The Italians loved pouring wine. And the cheeses from the British Isles!  I ate so much Neal’s Yard cheddar one year that I swear my heart started skipping beats. But this was still too much.  It would be one thing if I was the food buyer for a gourmet food shop and was trying to stock the shelves.  I was just an inquisitive chef roaming the aisles for inspiration.

The narrowing of my tasting focus happened naturally the year that I started The Art of Tasting Chocolate website.  I tried all the chocolate confections.  ALL OF THEM.  It took two days.  But at least they were all in the chocolate family. There are a lot of confections that should be avoided at all costs.  However, I couldn’t report on what I thought was the best unless I tried them all, right?  Down one aisle.  Up another. Masterpieces of construction from Spanish confectioners were sampled beside hand dipped artisan chocolates from Oregon.  Chocolate with chilies.  Chocolate with cheese.  Chocolate with smoked pork products. I traded acid indigestion for a near diabetic coma. 

So with that criteria, I went a’tasting.  And this is what I found. I tasted only pure chocolate.  These are my favorites in no particular order:

MICHEL CLUIZEL : Oh, those French! So elegant. So refined. A guided tasting of five ‘1ers Crus de Plantations’ plain chocolates took less than ten minutes yet transformed me into a Cluizel groupie. This was one of the best guided tastings I have ever experienced.  Starting with Los Ancones – Santo Domingo – 67% cacao, we worked our way around a tasting map that took us to Venezuela, Madagascar, New Guinea and Sao Tome.  

AMANO ARTISAN CHOCOLATE : Art Pollard always continues to amaze.  This year he added a fourth chocolate bar to his repetoire.  JEMBRANA, 70% minimum cacao, is produced from beans that Art sourced from the Regency of Jembrana, on the southwest coast of the Indonesian island of Bali.  This is a gentle bar of chocolate.  Nice fruitiness with a hint of nuts and a background of vanilla that rounds out the flavors.

TAZA CHOCOLATE : This was the ‘wow’ moment for me at the show.  Stone ground chocolate so the texture is rough, not smooth like chocolate that has been conched.  Only four ingredients: cacao beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter and whole vanilla beans.  When I tasted the 80% Dark Stone Ground Organic Chocolate Bar I could taste cherries.  Added? No.  I was just tasting the terroir of the beans. 

If all this talk of chocolate has you drooling then you won’t want to miss the SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL CHOCOLATE SALON  which is happening this Saturday, March 21.  This year it is being held in a larger venue than in past years.  More room to roam around in a chocolate coma.  I will be there as a member of the tasting panel. See you there!

IS CHOCOLATE RECESSION PROOF?

What compels people, especially in this current economy, to pay $55 to watch a guy stand in front of a room and talk for two hours? Chocolate.  But, most importantly, chocolate as interpreted by Michael Recchiuti.  Over 20 people sat in a cool room (ambient temperature 65 degrees) in an industrial building in San Francisco this afternoon and watched while Michael demonstrated how to temper chocolate, how to form a tuile, how to make a perfect ganache and transform it into a truffle and what to do with unhopped barley-malt syrup:Oh, yeah, and then there were those triple chocolate cookies and chocolate bark.

I have taken two other classes from Michael.  He did a similar class to this one when his cookbook first came out.  There was also an amazing chocolate/wine pairing class that he did with the Ferry Market Wine Merchants two years ago.  I take Michael’s classes for two reasons. He has an alchemist’s aptitude for combing flavors (i.e. ruby red grapefruit and tarragon and for controlling fire. As I watched him make the Burnt Caramel Base(a signature Recchiuti Confections flavor) I was reminded of one of my cooking school chefs who taught me how to burn onions for the best onion soup.  It was at that moment, years ago, that I understood where flavor is developed.  It is developed at that precipice where one might panic and turn back. It is the moment when you think the onion might be burning or the croissant is getting too dark (see Tartine Bakery), or the sugar is about to burn beyond recognition.  Good chefs brown.  Great chefs burn.

For upcoming classes check out their website. The questionnaire passed out at the end of the class asked which topics we would be interested in for future demos.  I vote for Chocolate Pairings, Savory & Sweet Chocolate and Demos involving chocolate and other non-chocolate items (herbs, salts).  

Who Doesn’t Need S’Mores?

I once wrote that cupcakes are the puppies of the baking world.  People come undone and practically fall to their knees when confronted with the cuteness of a cupcake.  I would like to add another sweet to the list: the s’more. While the s’more was once only an a-la-minute-do-it-yourself gooey treat served campfire side, it now serves as muse to confectioners and cookbook authors alike.
I realize that spring just began a few weeks ago but aren’t we all thinking about what we are going to do for our summer vacation? I thought it would be a great idea to give the reader a few ideas for summer entertaining and gift giving, especially since all of these ideas involve ordering ahead. 

S’Mores Cookbook: Before I tell you how charming this cookbook is I must disclaim that I was involved in the early stages of its planning.  (Really, all I did was read the first draft and provide a couple chocolate suggestions). 
GIMME S'MORES  is a self-published cookbook by John Felts. On vacation in Maui one summer, John was inspired by his family’s tradition of having s’mores for dessert after dinner.  While reaching for his glass of port and his second s’more he was heard to say ‘what the world really needs is a S’MORE COOKBOOK!’  And who are we to argue?  I think of this photo packed cookbook less as a collection of recipes and more as an indispensable handbook of assembly ideas.  There are recipes ranging from the classic to the experimental.  Loaded with photographs and diagrams the reader will learn how to roast the perfect marshmallow and how to create a s’more when there is no campfire in sight. How about a Range Top S’more or a Microwave S’more?  Wondering what other uses you might have for that blowtorch?  Never built a campfire before?  No problem. The Technique chapter offers how-tos on building a classic campfire.

There is no reason to confine the enjoyment of a s’more to summertime only.  Why not start your own Christmas tradition by leaving Santa a special peppermint Christmas S’more  - much more interesting than a chocolate chip cookie! And just in case you thought that s’mores are all about child’s play, there is a section on wine pairing.  Very adult, indeed!  A copy of this book ($21.00 soft cover) will make an amusing summer hostess gift, along with a box of graham crackers, a bag of marshmallows, some great chocolate and lots of imagination.

S’More Gear: August 10 is unofficially National S’Mores Day.  The Girl Scouts may have invented this graham-cracker-roasted-marshmallow-chocolate treat but my earliest s’more memory is from a Camp Fire Girl’s overnight camping trip.  The camping trip took place in a regional park not too far from our home but it still felt like we were all braving the wild. We were each responsible for finding our own marshmallow roasting stick that we had to strip the bark off of using our pocketknives. Why whittle when you can just go to PIE IRON  and purchase one of their marshmallow roasting forks?  You thought that it would be easy to decide what fork to use?  There is the ‘#RT-12 Roaster Toaster Fork, the #2200 Picnic Forks in four fashion colors, the #3000 Marshmallow and Weenie Roaster with vinyl dipped handle, or, my favorite, #4900 Marshmallow Tree fork made from steel that is bent and turned to look like the branches of a tree.  Each end holds a marshmallow allowing the user to roast ten marshmallows at a time.  I am trying hard to think of an occasion where I might want ten marshmallows ready all at one time.  I have always viewed the roasting of marshmallows as a kind of do-it-yourself activity.  I roast mine, you roast yours.  Clearly there are gaps in my marshmallow education

On the Go S’Mores: I received an email last week from RECCHIUTI   announcing the return of their ‘S’Mores Bites’.  I am a big fan of these easy, on-the-go treats.  No assembly required and they fit nicely in a handbag or lunch box.  The description reads: Fresh Recchiuti marshmallows lay atop tiny handmade graham crackers that are blanketed in pure bittersweet chocolate.  4 pieces, $8.00.  If you plan to ship these be sure to read the important note that will bring a smile to your face:
S’Mores Bites are made with fluffy marshmallows filled with air.  They are very yummy, but they pop their tops in high altitudes.  Shipping = Airplane = High Altitude. When your Bites arrive after shipping they will be slightly cracked on top. 

S’Mores Kits: For those who want to kick up the s’more experience a notch or two or three, Recchiuti San Francisco also offers a S’Mores Kit.  The kit contains eight handmade Vanilla Bean Marshmallows, 8 Recchiuti Graham crackers and a Bittersweet 85% Chocolate Bar.  Makes 4 to 8 servings. $22.00.

The Second Annual San Francisco International Chocolate Salon

Be sure to mark your calendars for Sunday, April 13, 2008 for this year’s International Chocolate Salon.  With over 30 Chocolatiers and Wineries participating it should be even more fun than last year’s event.  For more information click here. .

Fort Mason Conference Center, San Francisco.  Tickets $20.00 for adults, Advance Purchase $17.50. 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.  Get there early!

The chocolate flows this weekend in Napa

How does the Muse amuse herself on a wet Saturday in February?  By heading up to Napa to enjoy DEATH BY CHOCOLATE at Copia.  Join me, won't you, as we taste our way through the chocolate offerings of over 50 chocolatiers, confectioners and pastry chefs. Tickets still available.

FOG CITY NEWS CHOCOLATE HEADLINERS

FOG CITY NEWS  is a chocolate Carnegie Hall.  If you are a player in the chocolate world you must play Fog City News when you visit San Francisco or you simply haven’t arrived.  It is the one venue in the City that I can count on to run into any chocolate celebrities passing through town. Why is this so?  It is all due to the hard work of proprietor Adam Smith. He has a discriminating palate. He knows the chocolatiers and confectioners.  And they are pleased to make in store appearances to meet their fans. He also carries over 250 different kinds of premium, origin-specific chocolate bars imported from around the world. If you are seeking out an esoteric bar of chocolate that is proving difficult to locate there is a great chance that Fog City News will have it.

Their February In-Store Confectioners Appearance schedule is as follows:

Richard Donnelly of Donnelly Chocolates, Santa Cruz,
Friday, February 1, noon - 2 pm

Michael Recchiuti of Recchiuti Confections, San Francisco
Friday, February 8, noon - 2 pm

Lloyd Martin of Chocolate Visions, Scotts Valley
Monday, February 11, noon - 2 pm

This might be the year that you break away from the traditional red velvet heart-shaped box and dive into the fresh confections offered by these confectioners.  Fog City News will receive their shipments just seven to ten days before Valentine’s Day, thereby insuring utmost freshness.  Consider what a real chocolate truffle, made with fresh cream just days ago might taste like. Heaven.

Food from the Heart: Join the Muse for Chocolate Tasting

The fifth annual “FOOD FROM THE HEART” at the FERRY BUILDING MARKETPLACE  kicks off on Friday, February 8th, with a benefit for Slow Food from 5:00-8:00 p.m. The public is invited to stroll through the candlelit Grand Nave where the merchants and restaurateurs of the Marketplace will offer seasonal hors d’oeuvres ($2 - $4 per taste) and Slow Food volunteers will pour wine from several wine bars ($6 per glass). There will also be music by Golden Gate Hot Club and Classical Revolution, tango dancing, and a chocolate tasting led by Karletta Moniz of this website, Culinary Muse, and THE ART OF TASTING CHOCOLATE . Scharffen Berger has kindly donated chocolate.  Proceeds from wine bar and hors d’oeuvres purchases benefit Slow Food San Francisco. The entire Marketplace will be open until 8:00 p.m. for Valentine shopping. Inspired by the season of love, the Epicurean revelry and delights carry on through Saturday, as the Marketplace and the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market will be brimming with heartfelt foods and local chefs will offer cooking demonstrations on how to prepare seasonal, romantic meals.
Slow Food San Francisco seeks to promote the pleasures of farm to table gastronomic culture through taste education and community involvement. In addition to their efforts to protect the pleasures of the table, Slow Food raises funds to support a variety of organizations with similar goals. The proceeds of the FOOD FROM THE HEART event will be directed towards the Sanchez School Garden Program and will sponsor a Ferry Plaza Farmers Market food artisan, producer or farmer to Terra Madre, a world forum for those who are also engaged in the ideals of sustainable, local and human food production.

For the Bride who Loves Chocolate

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO and Bridal Network are hosting the fifth annual San Francisco Wedding Fair. It takes place this Sunday, January 13, 2008 from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. We attended last year because we just couldn’t miss out on the Chocolate Veranda. The press release says that there will be chocolate fountains, edible chocolate place cards and chocolate chandeliers. Frankly, we don’t remember the place cards or chandeliers from last year so we will be sure to report back to you on those fun new finds. What I do remember from last year were the many chocolate martinis I consumed. Cheers!

Valet Parking will be available at Four Seasons Hotel at a discounted rate of $20.00 for Wedding Fair guests. Tickets for the fare are $25.00 (a real bargain considering the wonderful contacts you will go home with) or $35.00 at the door. To purchase tickets, visit SF Wedding Fair and click on ‘Registration’ or call (510) 499-0881. See you there!

Twelve Days of Gift Giving: Day Four

By now you have probably guessed that our Twelve Days of Gift Giving includes only chocolates and confections from our favorite chocolate folks. There is not anyone kinder in the confection business than Chuck Siegel. From the beginning of this site, he and his staff have been supportive of our chocolate endeavors. As a special treat to our readers, Chuck is offering you 15% off of your order. The deadline for ordering is December 17, next Monday. Hurry and send one of their very elegant edible boxes to your most important client. They will be impressed.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE CHARLES CHOCOLATES SITE.

An Afternoon with Terry Richardson, Man of Science and Chocolate

The secrets of working successfully with chocolate are hard won. If truth be told, even scientists aren’t really sure how or why chocolate does what it does. They can estimate what will happen given a certain set of conditions but for the most part, a cacao bean keeps its secrets well. Large chocolate manufacturers have spent millions of dollars and decades perfecting their own highly proprietary processes of manufacturing chocolate. They are not willing to reveal what they know. But there is one man who knows a lot about chocolate and is willing to share the information. Terry Richardson. He has owned his own chocolate and confectionery consultancy business for over 35 years and holds patents for new products and processes. His is the only chocolate technology class offered in the United States, perhaps even the world, where, in just five days, you can obtain a vast amount of information about chocolate, from the raw material of chocolate manufacture to processing to usage. The big guys come to him to solve problems. The little guys come to him to learn what it really takes, besides passion and a lot of money, to become a chocolatier. As Mr. Richardson told me, the manufacture of chocolate is ‘not for the faint of heart’.

I first heard about Richardson Researches Inc. from confectioner, Anthony Ferguson, of Cacao Anasa who took one of their classes. Learning that there is an intensive chocolate class offered so close to home, I could barely get to my computer fast enough to check out their website. The site is full of information about all the courses offered. I went immediately to “Chocolate Class” and couldn’t believe what I was reading. Here, in one place, in just five days I could indulge my interest in chocolate from a scientific point of view. Where do I sign up? Flipping back to page one I was stopped short. It reads ‘Due to a transition into a new Food Science Laboratory at the University of California at Davis in 2008, Richardson Researches, Inc. will be unable to present our classes during the year of 2008. In case there is any change to this situation, interested parties should continue to view our website for any further updates.’ What? So close and yet so far? I had to find out more. So I contacted Mr. Richardson who kindly consented to this interview.

Terry Richardson is a graduate of the London Borough Polytechnic (now the University of London) in confectionery and chocolate. He has over 52 years of experience working in the chocolate and confectionery world for major companies holding major positions. He also holds several patents for products and processes. He partnered with Bernard W. Minifie, in 1976, to begin their chocolate and confectionery classes headquartered in Hayward, California. Why Hayward? Its central location allowed clients easy access from San Francisco and Oakland airports. He decided to retire and close the laboratory about four years ago. When the food science department at U. C. Davis heard he was retiring they approached him about teaching a class there. With assistance from Guittard's reseach scientists and others, he packs in enough cacao information to give even a novice a good idea of what is involved in manufacturing chocolate from the bean to the bar. When I asked if a student could walk out of this class and begin making their own chocolate he explained that they would have a fair idea, but the manufacture of chocolate using normal, industrially-sized machinery, is very complex.
They would have a better chance of success using much simpler processing techniques, such as ball-milling. This process is also demonstrated during the class.
Some students have confessed to him that they have saved lots of money by realizing that the complexities of chocolate manufacturing was not for them. But there have been many that have gone on to begin their own chocolate companies. Mr. Richardson is discreet about not revealing who his students are but he does mention that some of the most prominent names in artisan chocolate have taken this class. Most students, from the testimonials on his website, range from industry professionals to earnest enthusiasts. What is clear is that they are all satisfied clients.

Just about the only thing you won’t learn about is where to source cacao because this is not his area. But you will get to taste a variety of chocolates made from various bean sources. When I asked Terry what he made of the latest trend of single origin and single variety chocolate bars, he chuckled and confessed to being a ‘blend man myself’. He went further to explain that roasted cacao has over 500 compounds that together create what we perceive as chocolate flavor. Each single origin/single variety does not contain all of the 500 compounds, but various amounts of these compounds. The characteristics inherent in each cacao bean type differ. A chocolate made from a single variety may not deliver a full chocolate flavor experience. Some single varieties, as well as containing the desired chocolate, fruity and nutty notes, can be too acidic, bitter and earthy. Blending is the only guarantee of a consistent taste profile that a manufacturer can depend on and the consumer can expect time after time.

At the end of interview I was again struck by how complex the world of cacao and chocolate are. And that there are so many paths one can take to enter the world of cacao - from the science angle - agriculture, manufacture - to the human angle - welfare of the growers, fair trade - to the marketing and sale of the final product. At every turn I find that there are not only special cacao beans that need to be preserved but also special people, like Terry, who have a lifetime of experience working with chocolate and whose knowledge they are generous enough to share with others.

Suggested Reading:

Chocolate, Cocoa and Confectionery by Bernard W. Minifie

Chocolate Production and Use by L. Russell Cook (revised by Dr. Eppo Meursing)

Cocoa by G. R. Woods

Resource: MC Publishing Company, Inc., www.gomc.com