Culinary Muse

A SHOCKING CHOCOLATE PAIRING

I have used many words to describe the chocolate pairing experiences I have had over the years.  Fruity. Smokey. Citrus. Divine. I have never used the words ‘fungal’ and ‘shocking’. Until last Friday night, that is.  Our friends, T & P presented us with a bottle of Hanahato Kijoshu Sake.  This aged sake (eight years) has a beautiful amber color, the taste of a dry sherry and the nose of fungus gone amok.  I have never sniffed and then tasted any liquid for which the nose had no relationship to the taste.  I poured each of us a small portion. We all took a sniff and then started laughing. Could anything that smelled this bizarre have any redeeming culinary value? After a couple of sips it was clear that we had to try this with some really good chocolate, as suggested by Beau Timkin at TRUE SAKE . I went into my chocolate stash and pulled out a bar of  AMANO CHOCOLATE'S Jembrana 70% Dark Chocolate.  We each took a small bite of chocolate, allowed it melt for a moment on the tongue and then took a sip of Kijoshu.  That is when this, excuse the analogy, magical mystical mushroom trip began. The sake brought out the cherry in the Jembrana.  What cherry, you Jembrana fans might ask?  Exactly.  Alchemy and magic at work.

IS CHOCOLATE RECESSION PROOF?

What compels people, especially in this current economy, to pay $55 to watch a guy stand in front of a room and talk for two hours? Chocolate.  But, most importantly, chocolate as interpreted by Michael Recchiuti.  Over 20 people sat in a cool room (ambient temperature 65 degrees) in an industrial building in San Francisco this afternoon and watched while Michael demonstrated how to temper chocolate, how to form a tuile, how to make a perfect ganache and transform it into a truffle and what to do with unhopped barley-malt syrup:Oh, yeah, and then there were those triple chocolate cookies and chocolate bark.

I have taken two other classes from Michael.  He did a similar class to this one when his cookbook first came out.  There was also an amazing chocolate/wine pairing class that he did with the Ferry Market Wine Merchants two years ago.  I take Michael’s classes for two reasons. He has an alchemist’s aptitude for combing flavors (i.e. ruby red grapefruit and tarragon and for controlling fire. As I watched him make the Burnt Caramel Base(a signature Recchiuti Confections flavor) I was reminded of one of my cooking school chefs who taught me how to burn onions for the best onion soup.  It was at that moment, years ago, that I understood where flavor is developed.  It is developed at that precipice where one might panic and turn back. It is the moment when you think the onion might be burning or the croissant is getting too dark (see Tartine Bakery), or the sugar is about to burn beyond recognition.  Good chefs brown.  Great chefs burn.

For upcoming classes check out their website. The questionnaire passed out at the end of the class asked which topics we would be interested in for future demos.  I vote for Chocolate Pairings, Savory & Sweet Chocolate and Demos involving chocolate and other non-chocolate items (herbs, salts).  

SCOTCH AND CHOCOLATE?

A perfect winter's evening pairing. Our rainy and foggy weather in San Francisco for the last few days just begs to be enjoyed with a warming glass of scotch and a nibble of chocolate. When choosing a scotch to pair with chocolate, go for the smoother single malts or less assertive blends like Johnnie Walker Red. One of our favorites is OBAN, a West Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Being from one of Scotland’s six Malt Whiskey making regions, it blends the sea air character of the Island malts with the soft, fruity style of the Highlands. So smooth. We like to pair it with Guittard’s 72% cacao dark chocolate or a fruity Dagoba 59% cacao. The city’s best selections of scotch can be found at William Glen & Son, 360 Sutter Street, SF, 94108, 415.989.5458.