Culinary Muse

The Power of a Warm Apple Crisp

Dear Readers: Below is a reprint of an article I wrote in September 2001 for the on-line zine SPACE, part of enokiworld.com.  It is still pertinent today.

In the September 26, 2001 New York Times, Stephen Jay Gould wrote a wonderful editorial entitled "A Time of Gifts". He talks about the rescue effort at the World Trade Center and the power of "Twelve, warm, apple brown bettys". Read it here.

It reminded me, yet again, of the power of food. The power to comfort and the power to connect. I encourage you to have a meal with family and friends this week. And be sure to eat out at least once. Our colleagues in the food biz need your help right now. If you want your favorite restaurant to be around next month, you need to visit them tonight. And leave a big tip - they will love you for it.

Recipes: Hot Chocolate for One

This is the hot chocolate of tearooms in Paris on cold winter afternoons - the kind of hot chocolate that a spoon stands up in. Some might even call it pudding. The first time that I had the sublime pleasure of this version of hot chocolate was at Angelina in the first arrondisement. It had been raining all day and Paris was the grayest place this California girl had ever seen. As I was wandering down the rue de Rivoli trying to figure out how it was possible to get so depressed in such an amazing city, I remembered the list of 'tearooms' that a friend had given me. Her only note next to the entry for Angelina was 'hot chocolate'. Sounded good to me. I was ushered into a very proper looking dining room, filled with well dressed ladies sipping hot chocolate and nibbling on lovely French patisserie. The hot chocolate arrived in a white porcelain 'hot chocolate' pot with a small bowl of whipped heavy cream on the side. And a pitcher of water. One sip and I knew that this was the cure for my blues.

Evolution of a Chef

My first cookbook? Betty Crocker's "Boys and Girls Cookbook" received as a gift from Aunt Mary. I'm not sure that I actually did cook anything out of it. At least I hope not. The photo of pigs in a blanket sent a shudder down my food stylin' spine. I also remember being put off by the list of judges that were pictured on the front page. Was Betty's definition of "kid approved" defined by the kid who came up with the recipe for Candle Salad on page 126? Close your eyes and envision this: Candle base is a ring of pineapple. Candle is a banana set upright in the center of the pineapple ring. The flame is a maraschino cherry fastened on top of the banana with a toothpick. Perhaps it was Betty herself who channeled this conceptual piece late one night to some poor, old home economist who hated children and just wanted to go home. We have been told that Betty Crocker never existed but I think that this recipe proves she did. They just needed to keep her out of the way.

To Drink Before Noon

From Mimosas at the JC to Kir Royales at La Garenne in Reims, and a Ramos Gin Fizz at NOHO STAR to the Royal Hawaiian's Pina Coladas, we never miss a chance to indulge ourselves with a buzz-inducing cocktail in the morning.

Brunch offers the perfect excuse to drink alcohol before noon. Your boyfriend's mother might raise an eyebrow if you were to order a beer with your breakfast of ham and eggs. Call it 'brunch' and we promise that this same woman will jump right in and join you in a cocktail or two or three.

Comforting Casseroles

In the 90's it was a sure bet that I could silence a table full of my foodie friends by simply uttering the word 'casserole'. I would whisper, "I love casseroles" and people would shriek, "YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!!". Well, I am here to report that those same folks that just a couple of years ago could be found gathering up the latest baby vegetable at the organic Farmer's Market on Saturday morning now have real babies of their own. And no time. But they still need to eat and, on occasion, entertain. This is where the casserole fits in perfectly.

A casserole needs to be carefully composed. It is not a garbage dump. Think French 'cassoulet' and you will get the idea. A variety of different, often already cooked items, are tossed together, arranged in a casserole and placed in a hot oven where their flavors meld.

Cocktail Nibbles

It's cocktail time! And whether you are pouring a traditional yuletide eggnog or a scotch on the rocks, you will need a 'little something' to munch on. No, we are not talking hors d'oeuvres here. This is not something for guests to fill up on before dinner because they know their hostess is a terrible cook and they had better eat now or never. 'Nibbles' are about a mouthful of something savory. Something that gets passed around in a silver bowl; you grab a few, place them on your cocktail napkin and nibble. The following two recipes are a Southern tradition. They both make a lot which you will be happy to have on hand when an unexpected guest shows up.

The Best Cookbooks

This piece originally appeared in the on-line zine SPACE part of the wonderful vintage clothing website 'enokiworld'.

We love our cookbooks. Just as much as we love our handbags and shoes. Here is a list that we feel any serious, or not so serious, cook should have. A few are out of print but well worth the hunt.

Long before there was a Martha or a Barefoot Contessa there were Francine, Madeline, Anna and Sarah:

- The SOHO Charcuterie Cookbook by Francine Scherer and Madeline Poley (Morrow, 1983)
- The Loaves and Fishes Cookbook by Anna Pump (Macmillan, 1985)
- Open-House Cookbook by Sarah Leah Chase (Workman, 1987)

Warm Apple Crisp

In the September 26, 2001 New York Times, Stephen Jay Gould wrote a wonderful editorial entitled "A Time of Gifts". He talks about the rescue effort at the World Trade Center and the power of "Twelve, warm, apple brown bettys". It can be read 'on-line'.

It reminded me, yet again, of the power of food. The power to comfort and the power to connect. I encourage you to have a meal with family and friends this week. And be sure to eat out at least once. Our colleagues in the food biz need your help right now. If you want your favorite restaurant to be around next month, you need to visit them tonight. And leave a big tip - they will love you for it.

The Dessert Pantry

This article originally appeared in the on line zine SPACE published by the wonderful vintage clothing website 'enokiworld'.

Lots of basic cookbooks will have lists of what you should have in your pantry. Things like flour, salt, sugar, baking powder, etc., which is fine if you really are a cook. And you really do anticipate baking in the next six months. And you have the luxury of planning ahead. But let's be honest - life in the kitchen is mostly about 'I am so hungry right now I could eat that tuna right out of the can' and 'Have I really spent $100 on take-out food this week?'. In the next few months we will give you an idea of what the New Pantry of the 21st century should look like. Some of it will seem exotic (hearts of palm), some of it is a matter of personal choice (only Tellicherry black peppercorns, please) but all of it will enable you to fix something delicious. Fast. Your closet looks great. Why shouldn't your pantry?

Green Goddess

Once upon at time it was very fashionable to name a dish after a famous person: Turkey Tetrazzini, Oysters Rockefeller, Peach Melba. From what I can tell, these dishes usually came out of the kitchens of hotels. I am guessing that a note was passed from the Concierge to the Food and Beverage Director to the Executive Chef. The note probably read: (Karletta Moniz is in town. She loves chocolate. Create a new chocolate dessert NOW). Knowing all too well how the back of the house reacts to suggestions from the front of the house, I can only imagine what the Executive Chef's reaction was when he was expected to create a dish in honor of someone named Karletta Moniz. Or George Arliss. Now, George Arliss was an actor that visited San Francisco in 1915 and stayed at the Palace Hotel. Luckily for us, the Executive Chef had the good sense to name the following dressing for the play that Arliss was in town performing in, "The Green Goddess", and not for Arliss himself.