I try to resist humming the song ‘Grant Avenue’ from ‘Flower Drum Song’ as I walk through Chinatown during Chinese New Year. 1950’s sentiments and stereotypes aside, it was probably the one piece of theater that had the most to do with promoting San Francisco tourism. I like Chinatown in January. But I love it in February when it revs up for the New Year. Red lanterns swing from balconies. Florist shops are full of flowering quince, cherry and peach branches. Thick hunks of candied coconut are sold for 99 cents a package. The streets are a little too crowded for my taste, but I still manage to get over to Golden Gate Bakery to pick up a freshly baked treat to eat on the street. A vulgar habit, I am told. But a delicious habit, nonetheless.
Golden Gate Bakery usually has a long line out the door. A very slow moving line. It’s not that they are understaffed. There are usually three women, including the owner, behind the counter at all times. Remember, however, that this is not Starbucks and each person in front of you is not just ordering one double latte and one muffin. People come to Golden Gate Bakery because they are buying for a crowd. It is not unusual for customers, already weighted down with the ubiquitous Chinatown pink plastic bags hanging from their arms, to slowly edge their way out the narrow doorway balancing a stack of pink boxes. Pink cardboard bakery boxes that have little vents cut into the tops to vent the steam from the still hot treats. continued.....
What to buy? First check out what is on the shelves. Then consult the round cardboard, handwritten menu swinging from a ribbon tacked to a back shelf. From the look of this sign the list of offerings has remained the same since they first opened, only the prices have changed. I always get the egg custard tarts. Slightly larger (3 ½”) than the ones you find at Dim Sum restaurants. And the coconut rolls which come in two shapes. Either the plump glazed bun of sweet dough stuffed with coconut or the spiral of dough whirled around flecks of sweet coconut meat. One day I will try ‘cocktail buns’ as listed on the menu. A hold over from 1950’s cocktail parties when smart San Francisco hostesses would order up a couple of dozen and stuff them with deviled Dungeness crab while humming 'I enjoy being a girl' ...
Golden Gate Bakery, 1029 Grant Street, 415-781-2627. Call first. They always close during the height of tourist season. Well, wouldn’t you?
Oh really... i also like those buns...which a little bit sweet coconut inside....i like fruit cocktail as well.... i use is while making fruit delight....
http://www.flowergirldressforless.com
Posted by: Flower Girl | July 03, 2008 at 07:28 AM
I know, Beverly. Aren't they the best? Try to be there when they are hot out of the oven. Amazing!
Posted by: Culinary Muse | May 21, 2007 at 04:34 PM
How could it be that I hadn't known about the GGB until now? The egg custard tarts are divine - the best you'll find in the Bay Area. The crust is thin and flaky. The custard is a sublime balance of creamy goodness and egginess. There is a sheen on the custard that shows off its sun kissed appearance. These $1.00 tarts are worth the detour. The cocktail buns also get raves. My co-worker who is not too fond of coconut found these buns to be a delectable afternoon treat. Finding a time to go when there are no lines is the ultimate secret.
Posted by: Beverly | May 21, 2007 at 03:58 PM
golden gate bakery closes a month before the moon festival to prepare the thousands of mooncakes sold then.
They're round, dense "cakes" with a thin, sweet, wheat based crust surrounding a most commonly sweet filling. The filling can be red bean paste, white lotus seed paste, winter melon & nuts and other variations. They often have a salted duck egg yolk in the interior, which cuts the rich sweetness of the paste filling.
Golden Gate bakery is well known for them and charge a premium. I usually buy the white lotus seed paste with 2 yolks per cake. A box of 4 moon cakes will cost around $28.
Do give them a try later this fall.
Posted by: cyn | March 12, 2006 at 01:57 AM
I hadn't been to your site for a while and was delighted to catch up on your culinary musings! My daughter and I still have the chocolate and sea salt cookies on our "to do" baking list!
Keep up the great writing, it is a pleasure to read!
Posted by: Rosemary | March 31, 2005 at 02:31 PM